Saturday, May 22, 2010

I have a 3 y/o horse.. what should i do next?

He is 3 years old TB and off track. he has little bad habits since he wasn't there long. I feel like i am always hanging on his mouth yet if i let up he gets too fast. I try useing my body to slow his trot but that doesn't help much. He is also very stiff in the neck. I work with him and he is getting better at giving me his neck but are there certain excersizes perfect for this?
I thought of ungling him with side reins... is that worth it?
I don't want to bring him us to be hard at the mouth but i don't know how to give him rein without letting him speed up his pace... he is very clumsy and still trips and sinks his hind.
i use a regular D ring snaffel and that is it...
PLease give me your excersizes or comments on what we shoudl work on and how to start pulling him into frame...
Answers:
I have a similar problem with my 5 year old. While it sounds like you need some professional help (temporary, at least) there are some exercises you can do in the saddle and on the ground to loosen him up.
On the Ground: Put him in a halter (rope halter preferably, with knots tied in it along the noseband {they push on pressure points and give you a bit more control}) with a lead. Stand at his left shoulder, facing his head. Put your right hand on his withers and pull his face around to you with your left hand. If he is really stiff, it may take him a week or two before he can really stretch out. Try to get him to hold himself up when you do this. If he is "laying" on your hand, using you to support his neck, release him a little, then pull him sharply back into place. Don't let the rest of his body move. If he does, then put him right back where you had him and tell him firmly "whoa"; if he persists, then back him up several paces and tell him to "whoa" again.
Do this on both sides, twice, every time before you ride.
Also stretch his legs out. If his legs are stretched before you ride, then maybe he wont feel the need to stretch out too much while you are riding. It will also keep him from getting a cramp if he starts running before he's warmed up. With his front feet, stand at his shoulder and lift his foot up as if you were going to pick his hoof out. Wrap your left arm underneath his upper leg and put your right hand under the fetlock. Pull his leg up and slightly forward. Keep pulling forward and slide your left hand to just under his knee, and keep your right under his fetlock. Pull the leg out in front of him and downward. You'll feel him relax and "give" the leg to you. Release and let him stand. Do this on both legs. Stretch him slowly so he doesn't get hurt.
The rear legs: pick one up as if to pick out the hoof. Slide your hands down to the hoof and, lifting the leg, pull it as far forward to his shoulder as you can. Be sure to keep your face and body as far away as possible, because sometimes they will reflexively pull it out of your grasp. Then pull the leg back and downwards. Do this on both legs.
At this point, saddle him up. I strongly recommend lunging him for at least five minutes before you ride. Don't lunge him for more than 20 minutes everyday though, because you'll strain his legs.
After you saddle him up, lift both of his front legs up and forward before you excersise him. This pulls the skin out from under the girth so it won't pinch him when he runs.
Finally, when you ride:
While stopped in the saddle, slide your left hand down the reins a bit and pull his face towards your knee. Keep your right hand in contact with his mouth but dont pull. Only pull if he steps forward, and then back him up several paces, and tell him firmly to "whoa". If he starts to turn in a circle, let him. Eventually he'll get bored; don't release pressure.
Try to get him to hold his own weight when you do this. Don't let him lay on your hands; if he tries, release him a little, then pull him firmly back into place. Keep at it until you can maintain pressure just to hold him there, not to hold his face up. Keep him held there until his mouth, neck, and eyes relax. If he is chopping on the bit, don't release him.
This will teach him to be softer on your hands; if you keep at it, I swear it works. Do this on both sides, at least twice, right when you get in the saddle. Repeat the process throughout your riding, especially if you notice he is pulling on your hands.
Sorry I blabbed so much. My trainer taught me all of this and it has really helped.
Good luck! Don't give up!
try switching to a hackmore instead of a bit he was used to when he raced the different sensation may help
First, a horse should NEVER be pulled into a frame !!
A horse achieves roundness,softness and straightness by proper riding and trainin.PULLING a horse into any "frame" can at best cause a false sense of achievement at worst ,if done over long term,can cause physical pain.
The bit that your using sounds fine.If your not knowledgeable on how to correctly use side reins and a caveson, take some lessons.These tools,while if they are used correctly,can assist with helping your horse gain balance and strength and can teach him to use his muscles, can also become not so usefull if overused or used wrong.
TAKE lessons!! Kudos to you if your aware that your hanging onto your horses mouth.But its going to take someone on the ground to help you overcome that bad habit.If youve never retrained an off the track thoroughbred before and access to lessons (SERIOUS regularly scheduled lessons) I would consider sending him out for 60 - 90 days to get him started, with that being said,you will need to continue to put in the effort to keep the training moving forward.Its not an easy or simple task if youve not done this before.
Good Luck.
TB's that come off the track are taught that when you pick up on the reins that it's time to go faster. However, other types of training teaches the opposite.
A D ring should be what you need because overbiting isn't the solution. He needs groundwork and basic schooling because he just doesn't get it at the moment.
Here's a thought - Chris Irwin and his wife Katheryn work for the Thoroughbred Retirement Foundation and using their methods and techniques have been very successful at re-schooling ex racehorses and getting them into new lives and adopted out. Chris Irwin has his own website and you can get DVD's and other material which sounds like just the help you need. As I said, they are now using their methods for the TRF and I think it's something you should explore and could maybe benefit from.
Start your training over again like he was never started. Race horses are trained to run into the bit. He will always get faster when you let up pressure. Remember, he was trained to run. Nothing else.
the horse that i ride uses a full cheeck snaffle, and sometimes acts the same way. try switching your bit and free lounging him before you get on. just tie his reigns in his throat strap (make sure they cant come out, or your horse could trip)and use a lounge wip and get him running around the ring a bit. sence he used to be a race horse, he probably has a lot of extra energy. running him will tire him out so you end up playing tug-of-war a little less.
ps- just a reminder, your never gonna outpull your horse, so dont waist your time. maybe a martingale would help?
kimberwhick bit
check and release when you are riding (pull back and loosen(do repeatidly))

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